acc pump

[beefcake]

anyone care to share what section or name its called to be able to put in more fuel to get rid of my flat spot after throttle stabs .
Other brands actually call it acc pump or such , im not too sure what this one is called
i think its accell enrichment , but then what do you adjust to put in more fuel on throttle openings, its got clamps decays and sensitive stuff
thanks again fellas , my tune problem was solved with the correct usb software

[Holmz]

anyone care to share what section or name its called to be able to put in more fuel to get rid of my flat spot after throttle stabs .
Other brands actually call it acc pump or such , im not too sure what this one is called
i think its accell enrichment , but then what do you adjust to put in more fuel on throttle openings, its got clamps decays and sensitive stuff
thanks again fellas , my tune problem was solved with the correct usb software

Is it "Acceleration enrichment"?

p40 of the m800 manual mentions it.

[beefcake]

could quite possibly be so, thats if a m800 is the same as a ole m4/m2r deal
I dont have a manual,ill see if i can download it for a m4/m2r

[MarkMc]

The "Accel Enrich" is in the main menu of the M4/48, M2R and MLS. It is essentially the same as the M800.

[beefcake]

soo can anyone give a slow reacting brain a tip or idea on how do i go about entering a small amount extra fuel , or do i still have to go read the manual , that i don't have
Ya gotta remember ive come from a rotary microtech brand land with very very basic wordings for tuning , ie for acc pump i add 5 % or more, done simple sorted
This motec has a heap of fancy names for a simple subject , clamp sensistivity an decay what

dont get me wrong, im loving this computer, and cant wait to upgrade to m800 , but its just every time i have to find something new to tune or adjust , i gotta get my head around terminology used buy you guys

Im guessing you up the sensitive bit number for more fuel , and you adjust decay to smooth out the progression of fuel from pump setting to main table dont have a clue what clamp is for
Or do i need to study more

[Holmz]

Well I am headed to Perth in a few weeks.
(I am waiting for the visa to go there from the rest of Australia.)

You adjust the steady state response of the engine first, the attack the transient response.

In the good old days of Holley carbs, one adjusts adjust the acc pump by using different lift profile cams to the acc-pump. The nozzle size (I think), adjusted the duration (unsure).
Usually the minimal amount of fuel to either keep it from stumbling, or keep the lambda right, but too much is not usually a bonus.
It all depends on if you have large plenum that needs a lot of fuel to go with a lot of air ( RPM raising quickly, etc).

You either start with little and go up until it stops balking, or start with a lot and go down, until it balks, then back off.

I am sure that if covered somewhere - probably in the ECU-101 course, which I have yet to take.

[bazeng]

I took the advice of Omar (to download the M800 software and read through the f1 help menus)

This allowed me to better understand the terminology and also gave me some good starting values.

Car is running heaps better now Omar! Thanks!!

[20B]

Beefcake,
I have been doing some work with my multi throttle 20B N/A engine and found some great drivability gains with the accell enrichment. It may be less significant on a single throttle turbo motor but well worth exploring.
Firstly make sure your main map is pretty good otherwise you will just be making it hard for yourself to tune a bad map masked with enrichments.
I found the best way was to just go out and drive the car and make adjustments and try and feel the difference whilst keeping an eye on the lambda sensors to see what direction I was going.
I noted on my engine that accel throttle sensitivity ( rate of change ) settings had a big impact on accel enrichment up to the point that it got too touchy to drive so be careful there.
Don't try and do too much at once, just press F1 in the tables and read the help explanations and start playing with those settings until you start to feel what it does and understand the differences. You can't really hurt anything here as long as you don't go crazy.
It took me months just to work out how my engine reacted to these settings and I'm still always fiddling with them but it's pretty good now, it's a bit of a black art but persistence ( and data logging ) helps.
Feel free to email me if you need any help as there is not much helpful rotary tuning info out there.
Good luck and enjoy all the features your micro tech could never provide

[beefcake]

thanks for the reply, and when you explain it in more simpler terms i get the gist of whats going on so increasing the sens , does that give you more fuel ?

Ive now found after reading my logging that there is something gone wonky with my map sensor, it reads roughly ten psi boost at idle, and it was apparently boosting to 37 psi during the runs
Its only got 21 psi going to it from the waste gate control .
Last year i had a ida style intake and the vac pickup on them is under the injectors path, so i had petrol flowing up the vac lines , i noticed it as i fitted a mech boost gauge in the car for tuning and i saw petrol coming up the line .
So now at a guess (for now) i can only assume its contaminated the map sensor and caused it to read incorrectly and or partially seize up .
The wastegate is fine, i removed it and checked the diaphragm, spring and valve,its all good , and the engine is still healthy , so there is no way i was boosting to 37 psi on a 21 psi tune without not bending the apex seals
Ill post back what i find, and PS its also a bit hard to go for a drive in my car being a drag car with open exhaust , ohh i wish i could just do some laps at the track when its semi closed to racers

[Scott@FP]

Non-isolated element pressure sensors sometimes have a gel covering the element, and fuel/alcohols can dissolve it and really screw it up. Best practice is to always mount the nipple pointing down, and keep it elevated above the manifold, less chance of liquid condensation getting into the element.

Isolated style sensors (machined SS or brass body) of course don't apply. Well, unless water freezes onto the face.