the_bluester wrote:It may not work how you are thinking if it is a typical alternator lamp (Depending on how you have wired it up, is the original lamp still in the circuit?)
Typical older lamps get 12V from the ignition circuit on one side and a ground via the alternator to turn on the lamp, when the alternator starts working that ground becomes 12V (Approximations here) and as it has 12V on both sides, the lamp goes out. I am not familiar with that particular alternator. If the original light is still wired in and working then it would presumably work OK into the PDM if it works as i described above.
I assume you mean pulling the CAN message into the dash under user 1? You would be better off with "User alarm 1" as that is a true/false channel and you could then use it more simply to drive an alarm.
If the alternator is working normally without the connection to the PDM it might be easier to simply set up an alarm in the dash when battery volts drop below say 12.5V with a second condition of engine RPM being over 1000. That has the feature of bringing up an alarm on the dash even if the alternator light would not be on (Many don't bring on a light for failures such as worn out brushes as the ground to bring on the light includes the brushes in the circuit)
The Alternator has 4 pins on the plug, plus 1 m6 stud for the battery/starter. Previously the car was wired with just 1 wire which i assumed was IG. But the alternator keeps on dying, I've been through 3 alternators in 2 races. The original instrument cluster is gone.