probably a stupid question

Discussion and support for MoTeC's earlier generation ECUs

Re: probably a stupid question

Postby boostein on Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:34 am

i think this was tried, but i'll have to try it this afternoon. thanks. what about the fact that the injectors are firing at the same time?
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby RossB on Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:00 am

You shouldn't have 2 injectors firing at once. Can you post your configuration so I can have a look or e-mail it to me: ross.buckingham@motec.com.au .

Also, what tooth patern does this engine have for Ref/sync?
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby boostein on Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:21 am

yeah i could do that. should i just email the emp file to you? there are 12 teeth on the crank wheel. the sync sensor is hall effect and reads a disc on the cam shaft that has a small portion missing to signal.
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby boostein on Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:34 pm

so now i have a weird problem. i'm watching the injectors spray while i crank. they start to squirt and then they die out. when i run the injector diagnostic though, they both spray perfectly. ??????????? :cry:
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby RossB on Wed Jan 14, 2009 3:01 pm

I have looked at the configuration file and it looks ok, cylinder2 is firing 180 degrees after cylinder 1, I have tested this on the simulator. If you have both injectors firing at the same time there may be a wiring problem. Have you done an ignition and injector output test to verify that the ECU outpus are opperating the correct cylinders?

If your injectors are not spraying during cranking you need to check that your fuel pump is running properly during cranking.
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby boostein on Wed Jan 14, 2009 3:06 pm

fuel pump runs fine during cranking; pressure regulator shows 40psi constant. verified injector wiring; #1 goes to pin 2, #2 goes to pin 3. what's weird is that they fire sequentially now during cranking, but very weakly and dieing out after a few cranks.
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby IDP on Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:45 pm

What Ref Sync triggers are you using?
Is the engine syncing ok?
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby boostein on Thu Jan 15, 2009 3:33 am

i'm using the factory crank and cam sensors. the crank sensor is a mag sensor using the factory 12 tooth wheel. the cam sensor is a hall effect using the factory cam disc, which is essentially a collar around the cam shaft with a portion cut out to signal.
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby boostein on Thu Jan 15, 2009 2:44 pm

so i got the engine running but only on the #2 cylinder. i can't figure out for the life of me why it doesn't run on 2 cylinders.
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Re: probably a stupid question

Postby RossB on Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:23 am

It sounds like something fundamental has been over looked here. In this case I would always recommend going back to basics and re-checking everything. I would recommend, (in this order):
1. Carry out an output test on both ignition and injector outputs and ensure that IGN1 and INJ1 are operating correctly on Cylinder 1 and that IGN2 and INJ2 are opperating on Cylinder 2.
2. Remove the spark plugs and the cam cover, turn the engine over until the sync tooth just passes the sync sensor. The next tooth on the crank sensor is your "Index tooth", continue rotating the engine until this tooth is in line with the crank sensor. Now rotate the engine until you reach TDC #1 (compression) and measure the number of degrees of crankshaft rotation this takes. Use this number as your CRIP (you can check and adjust this later with a timing light).
3. With the engine still at TDC #1 make a paint mark on the cam drive pulley which you can line up with a reference point somewhere and mark it so that you can identify it as #1.
4. Now turn the engine until culinder 2 is at TDC (compression). I would expect this to be 180 degrees later but it could also be 540. With Cylinder 2 at TDC make another mark on your cam drive pulley so that you can identify it as #2.
5. Connect a timing light and spark plug to Coil #1 and crank the engine (without the plugs installed). You should be able to see your #1 TDC marker on the cam pulley line up with the timing light.
6. Now connect the timing light and spark plug to Coil #2 and crank the engine. You should be able to see your #2 TDC marker on the cam pulley line up with the timing light. If it doesn't line up you need to correct the value in the Odd Fire TDC setup.
7. Re-assemble the engine and run it to re-check the CRIP with the timing light.
8. Check for any diagnostic errors.

I have also noticed in your file that you have the Dwell set to 1. This is un-likely to be correct. Check the coil primary resistance, if it is very low (around 0.3 Ohms) it may be that you have CDI coils that are not suitable for use with the Bosch module. If it is higher (say 0.8 ohms or higher) they should work ok but I would expect you would need a dwell of at least 1.8. You would need to have the coils characterized to get the correct setting.
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