Having trouble getting a 3SGE running properly

[Billzilla]

Got the PLM plugged back into the CAN bus and it seems to work.
We also checked the TPS and it does seem a bit erratic so even though it's brand new (though been sitting around for a couple of years) I might put a new one on.


Reckon I'll log some data for the next run and see if we can figure out what's going on.
Any suggestions as to what would be best to log?

[Scott@FP]

A flaky TPS can make the engine run bad by triggering accel fuel, log accel fuel parameters at max Hz, or alternately turn accel sensitivity waaaaay down in general setup/misc setup/ 'accel threshold' to max value and see if it helps. Sometimes the TPS can be a very fast fault that is hard to catch with lower speed logging. Same with MAP or any other sensor tied to fueling, check their signals if something goes awry

Sorry about the rising/falling confusion, I should have looked at your capture and not assumed. Hate scrolling over large pics. Even nudes

Notes for mode 28 ARE there. Keep scrolling. Hit 'OK' on '10+ OEM modes' as it scrolls down. The help F1 menus are pretty extensive, but sometimes not obvious.

Enabled options and serial number show up when you connect the UTC to the ECU, on the main screen before you open the ECU. Can be helpful in determining what you can and can't do.

[Billzilla]

A flaky TPS can make the engine run bad by triggering accel fuel, log accel fuel parameters at max Hz, or alternately turn accel sensitivity waaaaay down in general setup/misc setup/ 'accel threshold' to max value and see if it helps. Sometimes the TPS can be a very fast fault that is hard to catch with lower speed logging. Same with MAP or any other sensor tied to fueling, check their signals if something goes awry

Yep, so it's being swapped for a good Supra one. That one runs as smooth as butter.
Hopefully it's that simple.

Sorry about the rising/falling confusion, I should have looked at your capture and not assumed. Hate scrolling over large pics. Even nudes

Okay NOW you've lost all credibility! lolol

Notes for mode 28 ARE there. Keep scrolling. Hit 'OK' on '10+ OEM modes' as it scrolls down. The help F1 menus are pretty extensive, but sometimes not obvious.

It's not unfortunately, see the attachment of the screen capture.

Enabled options and serial number show up when you connect the UTC to the ECU, on the main screen before you open the ECU. Can be helpful in determining what you can and can't do.

Yep.

[JulianEdgar]

In the help menu, if you select OEM modes, you have several more screens of help - modes 10 - 69.

eg

28 : Toyota
Suits: 4ZZ FE, 3ZZ FE and other VVTi engines, ie. VVTi Yaris
(Echo), Corolla, etc.
Ref : 36-2, MAG, RISE : 36 evenly spaced teeth with two missing
(per rev)
Sync : 4-1, HALL (4ZZ FE), RISE : four evenly spaced teeth with
one missing (per cycle)
CRIP : typically 469

[Billzilla]

In the help menu, if you select OEM modes, you have several more screens of help - modes 10 - 69.

Weird .... that menu appears on the Motec software on my desktop computer, but not the laptop that I use on the car.

[Billzilla]

Finally got it running reasonably well now ...... and we don't really know why.
Did a bunch of checking of everything, fiddled with the settings in the ECU a bit, etc.
Tried to get it running an hour or two ago and it did start (with a little Start Ya Bastard to help it go) but it was popping and banging really loudly out the exhaust and inlet ... but at least not blowing black smoke. Cleaned the spark plugs again to be sure. No errors on the logging of the ref/sync sensors.
Rang Matty from PITS and he told us to make big changes to the spark and fuel to see if that'd have any effect.
So to cut a long story shirt, adding about 30% to the fuel made it run half all right. No idea why it needs so much fuel. The lambda sensor is showing rich (low 0.8's or so) but if I pull any fuel out it starts to run lean again. So I'm guessing the lambda sensor is knackered. It hasn't got a lot of hours on it so that's a pain.

But at least we're getting much closer now. I don't think I'll be able to create a fuel map good enough to drive around on, so it'll have to wait until Matty gets a bit of time to have a play with it.

[Sean]

One thing just came to mind, when you define the PLM in the input setup there are 2 options #39 and #81. PLM over CAN should be set to #81, #39 seems to work but the numbers are actually wrong, says it's richer than it is.

Also, have you double checked your cam timing?

[Billzilla]

One thing just came to mind, when you define the PLM in the input setup there are 2 options #39 and #81. PLM over CAN should be set to #81, #39 seems to work but the numbers are actually wrong, says it's richer than it is.

Also, have you double checked your cam timing?

Ta, I'll check that.
Yes the cam timing is spot-on.

[Billzilla]

FWIW the prime cause of the problem seems to be the fuel pressure regulator.
It randomly loses pressure and to get the mixture back right I had to bump the overall trim up by about 30%.
For some strange reason it didn't do that when it was on the chassis dyno even once.
Anyway I've swapped it over (and the fuel pump and cleaned the fuel filter a couple of times to be sure) and it seems to be running quite well now.