Complicated M1 Idle Control
Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 7:37 pm
I have spent three weeks trying to get my Audi V10 to idle correctly. There are three sheets/pages of settings for idle control. This is far to complicated. When I complained I was told is was the same as OEM idle control. It was said to me as if it was a good idea. I have worked with a OEM tuning a engine and they have months to do the tune. Two long sessions on a engine dyno then on a wheel roller dyno before they were finished. In the aftermarket we have to do it one day and often less as so many things have to be fixed at the same time.
I watched one of HP Academy's excellent webinars on M1 idle control. This showed me to do it the same as with Vipec /Link ECU. That is to tune the open loop table first. I did this after zeroing the PID control. Got it perfect at each temperature for the RPM values in the Aim table. Put the PID setting back and saved it then ignition off and a restart. It wanted to stall over and over. So made the open loop table values bigger. Got it running and it was hunting up and down. So I thought I would adjust the D (Derivative) in the PID to stop overshoot. To my disbelief there is no D only P and I. All those settings and no Derivative. I started changing everything to learn what effect they had. I found most did nothing. So why have so many is that to confuse people like me.
What it does wrong at the moment:
1. The engine stalls just after starting
2. Dips too low after you blip the throttle
3. Turning the AC on and off causes it to hunt
4. Refuses to idle at my required 650 rpm. wants to rev all most twice as high.
5. Changing the Aim table to a higher rpm like 800 rpm takes a long time to happen.
6. Changing it back to 650 it will never do. Just blows bubbles.
7. I have teamviewer on my tuning PC and will pay anyone that thinks it is easy to go online and fix it.
The engine has mild cams and should be dead easy to get to idle. I know it would be very easy on another make ECU like the Vipec/LinkG4.
Sorry for the winge. Just too hard to do something basic I have done a thousand times on other make ECU.
Phone me first to connect with teamviewer. 0407 076793 or 07 40513842
Ray.
I watched one of HP Academy's excellent webinars on M1 idle control. This showed me to do it the same as with Vipec /Link ECU. That is to tune the open loop table first. I did this after zeroing the PID control. Got it perfect at each temperature for the RPM values in the Aim table. Put the PID setting back and saved it then ignition off and a restart. It wanted to stall over and over. So made the open loop table values bigger. Got it running and it was hunting up and down. So I thought I would adjust the D (Derivative) in the PID to stop overshoot. To my disbelief there is no D only P and I. All those settings and no Derivative. I started changing everything to learn what effect they had. I found most did nothing. So why have so many is that to confuse people like me.
What it does wrong at the moment:
1. The engine stalls just after starting
2. Dips too low after you blip the throttle
3. Turning the AC on and off causes it to hunt
4. Refuses to idle at my required 650 rpm. wants to rev all most twice as high.
5. Changing the Aim table to a higher rpm like 800 rpm takes a long time to happen.
6. Changing it back to 650 it will never do. Just blows bubbles.
7. I have teamviewer on my tuning PC and will pay anyone that thinks it is easy to go online and fix it.
The engine has mild cams and should be dead easy to get to idle. I know it would be very easy on another make ECU like the Vipec/LinkG4.
Sorry for the winge. Just too hard to do something basic I have done a thousand times on other make ECU.
Phone me first to connect with teamviewer. 0407 076793 or 07 40513842
Ray.