M84 2JZGTE VVTi Startup File

[xgrapher]

Wiring is 100% correct as it was taken off a running engine. Also I did cross check the injector and coil pins and found them wired sequentially. But can't remember if it was wired according to the friing order or not - I'll check it up tomorrow. However, if it were incorrect, it wouldn't run in the first place, right? In my case everything runs perfect and timing is synced. It revs up without much problems. Only the fuel likes to live in either extremes.

[AdamW]

Your fueling problem is because you are running in batch fire. Since the injector must fire twice per cycle the required pulse width is half of typical sequential pulse widths. I suspect with 1000cc injectors that would put you well down into the non-linear region at idle which would explain your "non linear" response to fuel table changes.
So please do the ref/sync capture that SprinterTRD suggested a few posts back (attach it here as a .zip) so we can get you running sequential.

[xgrapher]

ok, so the coils and injectors are wired according to the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, cross checked using a multimeter.

Did a tooth log capture but looks like I must have forgotten to save it - silly me. I'll try to do a capture again in the evening when I find some time. I could see perfect sinewaves 36-2 in yellow and could also see the sync waves in cyan happening at every 2 cycles of 36 teeth. The sync happens around 6th or 7th ref tooth I guess.

Anyway I will post a pic soon for better demonstration.

[xgrapher]

Swapped the 5V wire from pin 2 to pin 9 and hooked up a Haltech Sport 2000 that was laying around. Uploaded a friends tune that is for the same engine with same injectors. Only thing I had to change a little bit of trigger settings in Haltech.

Fired it up and wow, everything was beautiful. I could control the fuel precisely as I wanted. Did a couple of quick checks and pulled it out. Did this only to clears my doubts on the injectors, crank/cam sensor wiring, etc.

Any thoughts?

[SprinterTRD]

Have you obtained the correct battery compensation curve for the ID injectors for the ECU? If you haven't then this will make it difficult to tune at idle. Once You have the correct curve, you should not have to change the numbers.

The IJPU number changes the resolution of the numbers in the fuel map.
Choose a number that at maximum power/torque, you have the highest number in the table. This will give you the best resolution at Idle.

[xgrapher]

I've played a lot with IJPU, Battery Comp, Injection Angle, etc.

I can guarantee you that my problem has nothing to do with that. Because regardless of the resolution, it always behaves the same. Stays rich, rich and rich and no matter how much I reduce the fueling it then suddently goes super lean.

[PQatPIT]

Start with these, use front cam sensor, and wire it like in manual. Done many projects this way and they run beautifully.

If there is no start then send us your calibration file to see and comment. Also make an Ref/Sync Capture with only cyl. 1 spark plug attached and send it, too.

2JZ with 36-2 trigger wheel, with front cam sensor.jpg (50.68 KiB) Viewed 23035 times

[xgrapher]

Thanks man.

That's exactly my current setup. CRIP is 150 on front cam sensor and Tooth Ratio is 43 that shouldn't make a big difference. Can I get a file to compare all my settings please?

Today, I met with a professional tuner and he asked me to make my CRIP 515 even though I mentioned to him that my timing was rock solid. 155 + 360 = 515 so I'm assuming that the rear cam sensor would be used with this number? Also he asked me to turn my SYNC Edge Polarity to 2.

He told me that I bet you that your car would start without problems.

I've been tired of reminding people again and again for a 1000 times now that I have no problems with starting or with any other thing. My only problem is that fuel doesn't respond to the changes that I make in the table. When I decrease the number nothing happens, I decrease again nothing happens and again nothing happens and again and again and suddenly just past a certain point I goes super lean.

I'm very close to believing that my M84, although new, is faulty. Next step, I'm going to have it installed in a friends running car to see if the ECU is OK.

[xgrapher]

Here is the Capture file

[SprinterTRD]

You say yo have played with the battery comp but you didn't answer if you have the correct curve from MoTeC for the ID1000. If you haven't you are wasting your time and everyone else's trying to tune the engine with incorrect values.

The problem will not be the ECU, it simply does what the user programs it to do.

What it the Fuel actual pulse width value at Idle when it is rich and what is it when lean?