MoTeC Global Forum

Hello all, I have been doing some extensive research into swapping a newer V6 into my track MR2, specifically 2GRFE with dual vvti
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_GR_engine

In stock form
http://marclabranche.com/V6MR2/dyno.jpg

I want to use a motec m600 for my track car over the stock ecu for obvious reasons. The 2GR can physically bolt into an MR2, a few have already completed the swap with the stock ecu.

I was planning on running the motor with speed destiny.

Now my question is regarding wiring. I am really looking for some guidance, running mostly Motec branded sensors for all the basic inputs? Or wire in the OEM ones? How exactly does the 4 vvti cams get wired in. Also the DBW?

Basically i will need to wire in, IAT, Coolant Temp, MAT Sensor, VVTi controls, Igniton, injectors, and various gauge outputs?

thanks for you help, this will be my first wiring project, in the past i have relied on plug and play solutions
-Mark

I havent done a 2GR but many 1GRs

1GR has only inlet continious varialble cams. 1GR has 2 derivatives, one with MAG cam sensors, and the other with Hall cam sensors. Be aware that the Voltage supply to the Hall cam sensors are 5v and not the usual 8v or 12v. If you have too high voltage on them they get hot! Also the Hall cam sensors have a low voltage of 0.2v and a high voltage of 1.35V. This is not suffiecient to trigger a sync or digital input. You might have to use a external pullup resistor or just set the sync input to mag so that you can set the trigger level.

The Ref sensor is mag, no problems there.

The alternator needs only an IGN supply to charge on pin2 (4pin connector)


Coils have integral igniters

Thank you for the detailed info. After reading it a few times it seems i should be running the cam sensors as MAG? How can i tell the difference between cam sensors?

If the sensor is Hall but the trigger levels are not suitable for the sync input to trigger, then you fit a External pullup resistor(all hall sensors needs this...its also wired in internally when you select "Hall" in the software for the sensor type) with the external pullup fitted you can then select mag in the motec software and then you can specify the trigger levels.


Do not do the above before you have tested the sensor on your car. The 1GR-FE I did with mag sensors on the cams required no intervention. Its very easy to see whats going on by doing a ref/sync capture. If you are in doubt, double up your cam signal wires from the ECU to a external connector. If needed you can then later just put a jumper connector in with a resistor inside for a pullup

The 1GR-FE with Hall cam sensors have 3 wires going to the sensor. The 1GR-FE with Mag cam sensors have 2 wires going into the sensor.

Both 1GR-FE`s have mag crank sensors.



Why dont you rather go for the VQ nissan?

Thank you for the detailed information.

Also how can i test the cam sensor with the motor not installed in a vehicle?

The 1G and 2g physically bolt into an MR2 and i need a transverse layout motor to work properly in the chassis.

Take a Mx00 ECU, wire the sensors up and crank the engine. Remove the plugs, itll crank easier and smoother.

You only need to wire the ref and sync sensors.

Thank you again! Once i get this wiring underway i may have some more for you Thanks for your help.

Its a pleasure

Being a Master Lexus/Toyota tech I do have some information for you regarding the 2GR-FE engine.

The cam sensors are hall output mag sensors. They use an IC within to change the mag output to hall. The input to the sensors are 5V and so is the output. The crank is a mag sensor (36 minus 2).

Using a Motec M600 with 4 cam VVT-i, DBW with idle control will more than likely take up at least 6 of your outputs. That leaves you with 2 outputs only. One would be for your fuel pump and 1 more left. And you still need alternator FR control , a/c clutch control (if you're using it), and boost control (if you're using it)

You will not be able to use your OEM a/f o2 sensors. They are not compatible. If you use wideband control via your M600 you will need 1 output per wideband sensor for the heater control and you dont have that available so your option would be to use either the PLM or LTC. Preferably LTCD since your engine is a V6 and you will then have bank to bank control for the fuel.

This engine is very greedy with its input and outputs. It makes my 3.2JZ buildup in my JZA80 seem like I'm working with a carburator.

I also encourage you to remove all 4 of your cam gears and remove those 5-torx bolts and replace them with some high strength allen bolts and locktite them. Also replace your OCV rear bank delivery tube for the '09 1-piece steel line. The rubber hoses seem to come apart too often. Make sure you also find the service bulletin for the OCVs and replace them with the updated ones. Performing these steps will make sure your engine will last longer and you won't run into tuning issues with your buildup.

Great info, thank you. Alot of in/outputs!