MoTeC Global Forum

Hi ,

I'm running a Yamaha R1 2012 with a motec M800 and ADL dash .

I've been struggeling for a long time now with the motec ECU .

I now just build a compleet new loom for the bike starting from a YEC loom .

When I try to start up the bike it wont start only when I open the throttle for a little part it sometimes backfires .

when I start crancking it the ref sync error goes to ok so that wouldn't be the problem I think .

Now I started to do all the diagnostic tests and everything works except the sparks and injectors !

I find this verry strange that they dont do anything in diagnostic but stil the bike backfires sometimes .

I do run the Bosh ignition modules , they were installed in the loom I got with the bike .

Hope somebody can help me !

A common problem for folks wiring their first Motec ECU is that the injector numbers are for the firing order (ie. Inj1 fires first, Inj2 fires 2nd, Inj3 third, etc.). You need to connect these (and the ignition triggers) in the firing order of the engine.

Can you verify this is correct?

Hi ,

Yes this all is correct , ignition , top and bottom injectors are wired in the 1 3 2 4 patern .

here is my ecu config.

the stranges thing is that the bike did start with the old loom when using the dyno drum to start but not with the electric starter from the bike .

and now with the new loom I build it stil wouldn't start with the electric starter .

I have to say , one time it did start for about 1 second and thats all so the bike wants to start but there is just something missing to get it going .




With the YEC ecu and loom it does start so the engine would be ok .

Hello Kip

A few things to check.

1 Do a ref/sync capture to make sure that you have the correct edges. Things may have changed with the new loom so you need to rule this out as it can affect timing.
2 Put a jump battery on the bike and see if it makes any difference. It could be that the battery is making the crank speed low/variable and this could affect starting. Even if the jump battery doesn't help, keep it on for the rest of the work, and only take it off once you have the engine starting reliably.
3 Add some fuel to the Fuel Cranking Comp table. The numbers in your file are very low, around half of the values I would expect.

Some logging always helps too.

AlanB wrote:Hello Kip

A few things to check.

1 Do a ref/sync capture to make sure that you have the correct edges. Things may have changed with the new loom so you need to rule this out as it can affect timing.
2 Put a jump battery on the bike and see if it makes any difference. It could be that the battery is making the crank speed low/variable and this could affect starting. Even if the jump battery doesn't help, keep it on for the rest of the work, and only take it off once you have the engine starting reliably.
3 Add some fuel to the Fuel Cranking Comp table. The numbers in your file are very low, around half of the values I would expect.

Some logging always helps too.

Hi AlanB,

First thnx for your reply !

I got the bike running today after I replaced the sync Cam sensor than I foud that the amplifiers were wired wrong on cil 1 and 4 after fixing this the bike ran on 4 cilinders .

it started pretty good also on the 2 cilinders .

After installing everything back on the bike I wanted to start it again and from there on id just didnt start again .

I see alot of ref synck problems , nois etc in the logg .

I think like you say the battery is one of the problems , I'm using a extra car battery for starting but the bike really pulls them empty fast .

I also run the YEC loom , do I maybee need to change the res and synck wiring cables with screened cables instead the YEC wiring ?


Hope you can help me with the logging file .

AlanB wrote:Hello Kip

A few things to check.

1 Do a ref/sync capture to make sure that you have the correct edges. Things may have changed with the new loom so you need to rule this out as it can affect timing.
2 Put a jump battery on the bike and see if it makes any difference. It could be that the battery is making the crank speed low/variable and this could affect starting. Even if the jump battery doesn't help, keep it on for the rest of the work, and only take it off once you have the engine starting reliably.
3 Add some fuel to the Fuel Cranking Comp table. The numbers in your file are very low, around half of the values I would expect.

Some logging always helps too.

I got the bike started 2 times again today with changing the fuel crancking comp to dubble the value as you told and this got the bike running when it was under 30°C

I had it warmed up to 80°C and from there on it wasn't starting anymore so I maybee also need to change the crancking comp table at those Temps.

Trying to find some info from the logged data to see if I need to give it more or less fuell but I didnt got anythin good logging from the lambda when crancking .

Here are the 2 logged files 1 from running and 1 when it wouldn't start again .

Here is a ref sync capture of the bike with sparks out.

Also got the bike started 1 time today and when it was running the idle went up and down .

And than after it didn't fired up again .

Hi

I believe bought your sensor are fall.
Try to change that!

AF

Arve Flaat wrote:Hi

I believe bought your sensor are fall.
Try to change that!

AF

I should be using the rising edge on the sync to keep it away from the missing teeth....the missing teeth gap is the reference point you are aiming for so having the sync edge smack, bang in the middle of it won't work.

I think the big problem is that when I cranck it my batt V drops to 9V and pretty fast to 8v
I'm crancking it with the 12V bike batt and a car battery over it and still it drops to 9V .