Chris Wilson wrote:If I turn a 8mm thick dural ring to mount in front of the cam pulley, and then screw a single steel tab on the periphery as the single tooth, how big do I need to make the tooth? At half engine speed i doubt such a tooth will seriously affect balance, but being anal, would having a bigger dural "bump" opposite it, at 180 degrees, as a balance mass be seen by the sensor?
Now, hiding in shame, as i should know this, but got to ask I'm afraid. If I buy a pre laser cut crank trigger wheel for the crank nose, (solid to the hub of the damper... ), from one of the vendors of generic timing wheels, they all appear to have been pre cut with a missing tooth. Is that what I need, or does sequential injection, coil on plug set up need all crank teeth present? Thanks, I need to be clear as I read crank and cam triggering issues are one of the commonest problems people new to installing EFI suffer.
I have gone ahead and bought a commercially laser cut crank trigger wheel with 2 missing teeth. I can mount this to the hub part of the crank damper, so it's solidly mounted to the crank, no rubber!
Before I mount it and drill /tap the holes, can someone just tell me if, and how, I need to orientate the two missing teeth relative to the crank position, or doesn't it matter? Similarly, how should I orientate the tooth on the cam pulley wheel relative to the crank / cam position. Thanks