M2R - Require base map for stock RX7 FD3s - pls. help
Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 10:29 amHi guys, just seeing if someone out there has a stock base map for an RX7 FD. Need one for a motec m2r. Bought a project car and the whole tune and everything is all over the place and half the sensors not correctly setup.
Only mods on my car are a v mount and a bosch 044.
Also regarding CRiP values on the m2r it states 20 CriP for the fd, however on reading on what other people have stated about this, they believe its incorrect on motecs side and should be as follows:
Just to help everyone running Motec on an FD, you should find that a CRIP of 5 is the number to go for.
Yes, the MOTEC values are wrong for FD's.
As above, mark up 10 degrees BTDC on the wheel and use 10 BTDC as the timing lock.
If you are lucky and have an M800 as i do, you can go negative on the timing lock, so put timing lock on -5 degrees (which gives 5 ATDC), put 15 degrees on the split table (to run 20 ATDC on trailing 1 and use the factory notch for setup.
If you use the factory 20 crip, you'll have a lovely glowing manifold and cook the engine in no time.
Further pointers from memory - you can put in very high voltage filters on both ref and sync, like 5V to avoid runt errors. The standard ref and sync sensors have a good strong plus and minus 9v or more waveform from the standard trigger wheel.
If you get the chance, put a timing light on an Apexi ecu and watch the timing jumping everywhere. In comparison the Motec stays steady.
Only mods on my car are a v mount and a bosch 044.
Also regarding CRiP values on the m2r it states 20 CriP for the fd, however on reading on what other people have stated about this, they believe its incorrect on motecs side and should be as follows:
Just to help everyone running Motec on an FD, you should find that a CRIP of 5 is the number to go for.
Yes, the MOTEC values are wrong for FD's.
As above, mark up 10 degrees BTDC on the wheel and use 10 BTDC as the timing lock.
If you are lucky and have an M800 as i do, you can go negative on the timing lock, so put timing lock on -5 degrees (which gives 5 ATDC), put 15 degrees on the split table (to run 20 ATDC on trailing 1 and use the factory notch for setup.
If you use the factory 20 crip, you'll have a lovely glowing manifold and cook the engine in no time.
Further pointers from memory - you can put in very high voltage filters on both ref and sync, like 5V to avoid runt errors. The standard ref and sync sensors have a good strong plus and minus 9v or more waveform from the standard trigger wheel.
If you get the chance, put a timing light on an Apexi ecu and watch the timing jumping everywhere. In comparison the Motec stays steady.